Materials and framing
Although most of my photographs are taken on film, I scan the negatives to convert them to a digital file and eventually print them myself on an archival photo printer as a pigmented ink print or "giclee".
In between the negative and the final print I try not to adjust the image too far from the original scene, often just cleaning up spots on the negative digitally and sharpening.
I also create stitched photos with a digital camera using eight or so vertical shots to "stitch" together with a computer program.
My intent is to try to find scenes that are expressive in themselves, usually near dawn or dusk, and unless I'm unusually lucky the first time, I return to the scene till the optimum conditions are there.
The prints on paper or canvas should be colorsafe for at least 80 years.
My photographs are often purchased framed, as I think I offer good quality at a reasonable price. I do all the
handwork myself: the frame cutting and joining, the mat cutting as well as archival drymounting of the photographs.
At the moment I have six frame styles: #1 for liner liners on framed canvas photos, number 2 for smaller photos, number 3 for most medium size photos, and numbers 4-6 for the extra-large photographs.
In recent years I've been offering more photos on canvas, framed with an outer molding and an off-white linen liner.
The image is just the same size as my photos printed on paper and with the same detail as I use a matte canvas with a fine grain.
There's also an invisible coating sprayed on the canvas to protect it a bit more from abrasion and enhance longevity (they should be fade-free for 80 years).
The framed canvas photos are an inch or so smaller than the ones framed under glass as I use a 2" linen liner (a bit smaller than my method of 2 1/2 inch double matting).
Either way, double-matted under glass or framed with a linen liner, they're the same price.
Cape Cod Photos--
how to order